{"id":4376,"date":"2021-01-18T17:28:09","date_gmt":"2021-01-18T22:28:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/krissmotors.com\/ute\/?p=4376"},"modified":"2021-05-05T18:00:44","modified_gmt":"2021-05-05T22:00:44","slug":"top-cap-trim","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/krissmotors.com\/ute\/?p=4376","title":{"rendered":"Top cap trim"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Truck wall and body shell join angle isn’t 90\u00b0<\/p><\/div>\n

The top of the truck bed is surrounded by aluminum L-shaped caps that hide the join between the bed wall (and tailgate inner wall) and the fiberglass shell (and tailgate skin).<\/p>\n

To complicate matters, in most cases the wall and shell join is not at exactly 90 degrees; in fact, the fiberglass tends to bend down to meet the top of the aluminum wall causing an inevitable air gap between the cap and the shell\/wall surface. This gap could be filled with bondo, but this would be a laborious task.<\/p>\n

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If the caps are glued (3M panel bond or window weld as suggested by Smyth Performance), there isn’t a non-invasive method to force the caps completely down against the fiberglass and wall surfaces. Thus there is a risk that gaps will appear along the rail edge. <\/p>\n

An alternative fastening method, illustrated in the second drawing, uses 10-24 machine screws; an added advantage is that the top caps become removable. Machine screws mitigate the gap problem for a more consistent installation.<\/p>\n

A further refinement would be placing rubber edge trim along the 1\/8″ aluminum cap bottom edge to cushion it against the truck bed wall. <\/p>\n

A rubber trim also acts as a buffer to eliminate rattles caused by the unsecured bottom of the cap hitting the side of the truck bed; trim also effectively “closes” the air gap between the wall\/shell\/cap join.<\/p>\n

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